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	<title>
	Comments on: DIY Metal Stud Framing	</title>
	<atom:link href="https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/</link>
	<description>High Design on a budget. DIY tips from a Renovation Pro.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 23 Dec 2023 18:46:46 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>
		By: Kevin		</title>
		<link>https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-784</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kevin]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate></pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://renovationinsider.com/?p=14525#comment-784</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-757&quot;&gt;Mahmod&lt;/a&gt;.

Hi Mahmod. You have the general idea about how to create an opening and re-frame it. If this is an interior partition there are no issues with insulation. If it’s a demising wall (a wall separating one apartment or townhouse from another doing as you describe will compromise the fire-rating of the partition. You don’t need to return the drywall into the opening. You can use an “L-bead or a “J-bead” to finish the opening. But if you’re taping skills aren’t great perhaps an unobtrusive wood trim surrounding the fireplace would work for you. And of the fireplace has a flange that covers the opening you’ve cut, you don’t need to do anymore than you’ve described. Cut opening. Frame header. Place fireplace so the flange covers the cut drywall edges.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a rel="nofollow"href="https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-757">Mahmod</a>.</p>
<p>Hi Mahmod. You have the general idea about how to create an opening and re-frame it. If this is an interior partition there are no issues with insulation. If it’s a demising wall (a wall separating one apartment or townhouse from another doing as you describe will compromise the fire-rating of the partition. You don’t need to return the drywall into the opening. You can use an “L-bead or a “J-bead” to finish the opening. But if you’re taping skills aren’t great perhaps an unobtrusive wood trim surrounding the fireplace would work for you. And of the fireplace has a flange that covers the opening you’ve cut, you don’t need to do anymore than you’ve described. Cut opening. Frame header. Place fireplace so the flange covers the cut drywall edges.</p>
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			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Mahmod		</title>
		<link>https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-757</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Mahmod]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate></pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://renovationinsider.com/?p=14525#comment-757</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi I&#039;m trying to create a rectangular opening in an existing drywalled and painted wall for an electric fireplace insert. I assume after I cut the opening into the drywall, I&#039;ll be cutting the vertical metal studs that are blocking the opening and adding a track on the top and bottom as header and footer. I assume I snip the 2 ends of the header and footer and and bend back so I can screw them bent portion into the left and right uncut studs, with the cut studs fitting into the tracks and also screwed. After that I&#039;m lost....can I just sit the fireplace insert into the opening and put its cover plate on to hide the drywall cut, or do I have to drywall all the sides of the opening? or do I just add an L shaped metal drywall trim to screw the existing drywall to the header and footer tracks (after adding more drywall?)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi I&#8217;m trying to create a rectangular opening in an existing drywalled and painted wall for an electric fireplace insert. I assume after I cut the opening into the drywall, I&#8217;ll be cutting the vertical metal studs that are blocking the opening and adding a track on the top and bottom as header and footer. I assume I snip the 2 ends of the header and footer and and bend back so I can screw them bent portion into the left and right uncut studs, with the cut studs fitting into the tracks and also screwed. After that I&#8217;m lost&#8230;.can I just sit the fireplace insert into the opening and put its cover plate on to hide the drywall cut, or do I have to drywall all the sides of the opening? or do I just add an L shaped metal drywall trim to screw the existing drywall to the header and footer tracks (after adding more drywall?)</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Ms. My		</title>
		<link>https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-559</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ms. My]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate></pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://renovationinsider.com/?p=14525#comment-559</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Agreed! Steel stud framing is also an excellent alternative for completing a basement or bathroom where moisture may be an issue.  https://phxmetalframing.com/]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Agreed! Steel stud framing is also an excellent alternative for completing a basement or bathroom where moisture may be an issue.  <a rel="nofollow"href="https://phxmetalframing.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">https://phxmetalframing.com/</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: LJ		</title>
		<link>https://renovationinsider.com/diy-metal-stud-framing/#comment-217</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[LJ]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate></pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://renovationinsider.com/?p=14525#comment-217</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Thanks for sharing this info! You mention that it&#039;s easy to join metal studs; how do you recommend doing so? To get weeping tile installed, I removed 2 feet of drywall all along the perimeter of my basement. I also cut the bottom 6&quot; of steel studs and removed the tracking. Now I&#039;m trying to figure out how to redo what I undid. How can I extend the studs to join the missing 6&quot; from the bottom? I&#039;d obviously like to avoid removing the entire drywall and what&#039;s left of the studs. I also don&#039;t want to mess up the drywalling by creating unevenness along the flange. Thank you for your suggestions!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for sharing this info! You mention that it&#8217;s easy to join metal studs; how do you recommend doing so? To get weeping tile installed, I removed 2 feet of drywall all along the perimeter of my basement. I also cut the bottom 6&#8243; of steel studs and removed the tracking. Now I&#8217;m trying to figure out how to redo what I undid. How can I extend the studs to join the missing 6&#8243; from the bottom? I&#8217;d obviously like to avoid removing the entire drywall and what&#8217;s left of the studs. I also don&#8217;t want to mess up the drywalling by creating unevenness along the flange. Thank you for your suggestions!</p>
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